Ancient Towns of China

Mounigou valley is Located in Moni towm southwest to Songpan city, occupying an area of 160sq km with the average altitude of 2800m. The annual average temperature in this area only goes to 4¡ãC. Peaks ,forests ,caves and lakes coexist and enrich each other. Most of the lakes there have the same beautiful sceneries as Jiuzhaigou, and the calcified waterfall is as splendid as those in Huanglong. The groups of Karst caves and pearl hot springs are also waiting for your visit. Nowadays, 2 scenic spots are opened to the public : Zhaga waterfall and Er`daohai.

You can drive to Zhaga waterfall from Songpan whick takes about 1 hour or you can just ride a horse there which is more exciting. As traveling to Er`daohai only horses can send you there, it takes you 2-3 days for a round trip starting from Songpan and ending at the same place.

Zhaga waterfall Zhaga waterfall is a layered waterfall with the width of 35m and height of 104m, which names the No.1 highest calcified waterfall in china. The dropping speed of the water is about 23m/second, which roars the whole valley. Starting from the bottom of the valley you walk and ascend slowly passing by a series of scenic spots. When you reach at the magnificent waterfall at last, you can appreciate the whole view of it.

Er`daohai Er`daohai, (meaning two lakes in English), is located at the end of Mounigou valley, which is separated from Zhaga waterfall by a mountain. It derived its name from 2 local lakes ,Dahaizi and Xiaohaizi.

Er`daohai scenic spot is , actually, a long narrow valley about 5 kms running through by a wooden plank road. While walking into it, you can see a series of lakes one after another with crystal clear water. Wild flowers and the green branches are reflected on the lake surface, it just looks like an oily painting. At the deepest end of Er`daihai lies a hot spring with the legend that fairies from the heaven once bathed here. The temperature of its water is about 25 with a strong smell of sulfur. People are always seen bathing here in order to cure or prevent skin disease.

On the border between Jiangsu Province and Shanghai, stands the historic town of Jinxi - a place which awakens long-forgotten memories of how life was lived in the water towns on the lower reaches of the Yangtze River.

Foreigners believe Jinxi is a paragon of Yangtze River water towns and that its beauty surpasses that of Suzhou. The late well-known writer Shen Congwen described it as “a dreaming damsel” while Feng Yingzi, quoting an ancient Chinese line, said it “looks as becoming as ever, whether in light or heavy make-up.”

It is a town happily nestling in its quiet natural environment. The neighboring centers of Zhouzhuang and Tongli, by attracting hordes of tourists, help Jinxi maintain its tranquil atmosphere.

Jin Xi

The town is named after the Jinxi River which zigzags through the town from north to south. Taking a bird’s eye view of the town at twilight, one would see the green waters rippling and the houses of families residing on the riverbanks are reflected in the clear water. During the day, the bright sun covers the surface of the water with a golden light.

Town of bridges

Walking through the covered corridors along the Jinxi River, the visitor will find bridges built in various styles over the town’s many “water alleys”. The old town is small, covering an area of less than 1 square kilometer. However, it has 26 stone bridges, the highest “density” of bridges in the water towns of the south. Most of the bridges date from the Ming (1368-1644) or Qing (1644-1911) dynasties with some built in the architectural styles of earlier dynasties.

Water Lily Bridge

Renovation work in recent years has restored the venerable bridges to their former glory and the observant visitor will enjoy the exquisite craftsmanship to be seen in the bridges’ arches and beams.

The inscriptions and poetic couplets on the bridges describe the history of their construction and the story of the town over the centuries.

History abounds everywhere. One stone bridge with a wooden railing is known as “The Bridge of Pictures” or “The Red Railing” since it is painted vermilion. This bridge is a reflection of an architectural style that dates back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907).

Tomb of Concubine Chen

At one time in its long history, Jinxi had another name Chenmu (literally, “The tomb of the concubine Chen”). In 1163, during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), the Emperor Song Xiaozong and his beloved concubine Chen came by Jinxi while traveling through the region. The concubine became obsessed with the natural beauty of Jinxi and she decided to remain in the town for a while. Tragically, she died in Jinxi and the Emperor, grieving over the death of his beautiful concubine, laid her bones in Wubao Lake to the south of the town. He ordered Jinxi to change its name to Chenmu and a Buddhist Temple known as the Lotus Pond was built in Chen’s memory.

The temple today is a major attraction to visitors to the town. Construction of the temple began in 1164 (the year after Chen’s death) and lasted nearly 40 years. The temple consisted of a palace hall, rooms along the
veranda surrounding the hall, a meditation room, pavilions, courtyards and a gailypainted pleasure-boat.

The scale of the temple rivaled other more famous ones in China in those days. In 1656, during the Qing Dynasty, Halls for the Goddess of Mercy (Guanyin) and Maitreya (Mile) and a Hall of Great Compassion were added to make the temple a first-rate Buddhist retreat.

Disaster struck in 1767 when a conflagration devastated part of the temple. However, extensive renovations and rebuilding in the past eight years have given today‘s visitors a glimpse of its former splendor.

Tong Li is located by the side of Tai Lake. It is famous for its culture, which is over 1 thousand years. She is close to Suzhou, Shanghai and Hangzhou and the waterway is very developed. It is only 6 km* and surrounded by 5 lakes.

Tong Li-China Ancient Town

Water is the source of human civilization. About 4 to 5 thousand years ago, New Stone age, people have lived in this field. These prehistoric relics represent the culture of Song Ze and Liang zhu.

Streets and lanes wind through the town and the river branches make a crisscross network. Bridges connect roads. Because of living by water, every family takes vessel as the traffic tool. More than 10 river branches separate the town into 15 small islands, which are connected by over 40 bridges that built in several ages.

Si Ben bridge, built over 700 years ago, Nan Song dynasty, is the oldest one in this town. Although undergoing a long time, it is still standing stably in Tong Li.

There is a custom in Tong Li, “walking over 3 bridges”. These bridges are Tai Ping Bridge, Ji Li Bridge and Changqing Bridge. In wedding ceremony, people believe that newlyweds will live together forever after passing them. In the birthday of 66 years, old people will pass them after the lunch for their long life.

Tong Li has bee called “Fu Tu” which means rich area. In the past, due to its undeveloped traffic, Tong Li became a popular place for those hermits. Especially in Ming and Qing dynasties, quite a few government officers constructed their luxurious houses here.

Tui Si Yuan is the symbol for these constructions. Tui si means counteracting one\’s weaknesses which is a very typical thought of old Chinese scholars. In Tui Si Yuan, each building is connected with others by double corridors. It is a circle construction, which can keep out rain and hot sun.

The designer of this park is a painter–Yuan Long. Thus we can learn why it is full of romantic and paint styles.

Great nature also creates great people, Tongli has many historic figures and history.

The local landscape, full of Chinese typical view in south of Changjiang River, attracts a lot of visitors and professional creators in modern age. Quite a few famous films were shot here.

The water in Tong Li has cultivated the historic culture, undergone the social changes. Tong Li is on its way of development. But there is still sth unchangeable.

Today, June 15th, is my dad’s birthday, so I want to dedicate my blog to him today. This picture is from February when my dad came to Shanghai for a business trip and I took him to see Zhou Zhuang.

We are in Zhou Zhuang!

I have said before on my blog that I have the best Mom in the world, but I want everyone to know that I also have the best Dad in the world! (ok, I realize that many of you readers will probably protest in honor of your own parents….as you should:)….but it is still the truth. I am just really grateful for my Dad and Mom.

My Dad has always been AMAZINGLY supportive of my dream to be the American Chinese Pop Star. I think that any other father in America would probably have a heart attack if their son said he was going to leave his Master’s program and move to China to pursue his dream as a pop star. But my dad has always supported me and been willing to help me in any way he can. He has always taught me that I can be whoever I want to be.

My dad is the hardest working, most organized, and passionate person I know. While I was growing up, my dad would take me on a walk every Sunday to talk with me about how my week went and discuss my goals for the future. Even now that I have grown up and left home, one of my favorite things is go on long walks with my dad when I am home and talk about my dreams for the future.

In addition to being one of my best friends, my dad and I also dream of being business partners together. My dad also hopes to work in China some day, and in addition to my music and entertainment career, I hope to start businesses with my dad.

Dad, thanks for teaching me to believe in myself and always helping me reach my greatest potential. I’m excited for all the fun adventures we have in our future!

Happy Birthday Dad!

Love,

Your son and Chinese Pop Star in the making,

Benji

I’m very impressed by the fact that Zhou Zhuang, the little water town, proclaim that they’re the number 1 water country of China.  Interesting…  What happened to Su Zhou?

Zhou zhuang–China Ancient Town

This little town is located an hour of drive west of shanghai.  I gotta say that the town is very cute, very scenic.  I’m no Alfred Eisenstaedt, but every picture that I took there looked good, definitely professional quality; so it’s gotta be the place!  Since it was during the cold winter, there weren’t that many tourists.  However, I could easily tell that the place is heavily commercialized: restaraunts, shops were packed tightly along the canals.  You can only imagine the narrow streets filled with tourists during peak seasons.

Zhou Zhuang’s Boat

There were two must-visit spots in Zhou Zhuang: the twin bridge and the residence of Shen (of course, there are other must-see spots, but if one is short on time, the others could be ignored).  There’s a story of how the twin bridge got famous.  It goes like some painter painted the bridge, then the painting got bought by an American business man and the painting was presented to deng xiao ping as a gift.
 
I personally think the residence of Shen is more interesting than the twin bridge.  I mean, com’on, one is a bridge (ok, two), the other is a house.  This house belonged to Shen Wan San, 沈万三, the Bill Gates of China in the beginning of the Ming Dynasty.  He made his fortune by imports and exports.  He shipped silk and other goods to southeastern Asia and shipped ivory, lumber and spices back to China.

The most famous touristy product of Zhou Zhuang is Wan San pork thigh, a particular style of pork thigh named after Shen Wan San.  I guess back in the days, only the elites would have pork thighs on their dinner table.  This makes sense, if Hermes can name their bags after Grace Kelly and Jane Birkin, and Gucci can name their bag after Jackie O, why not the local shops name their pork thighs after Wan San.  You know you made it when there’s something named after you, even if it’s as insignificant as a pork thigh (although 700 years ago, it might be something major).
 
Besides the pork thigh, there were other delicous local dishes in Zhou Zhuang.  The local people were very friendly, and cute.  Very talkactive (not the annoying type thou).  Good food, good people, nice town, no wonder this place is so successful at attracting tourists.

Author: Luellas

    Tongli,which belongs to Wujiang in Jiangsu Province, is located along the bank of Tai Lake and to the east of ancient canal with eight lakes surrounded; it is 80 kilometers away from Shanghai Hongqiao Airport in the east and 18 kilometers away from Suzhou in the north, adjacent to 318 national highway in the south and Suzhou—Jiaxing expressway in the west. The administrative district of Tongli town, after mergence of Tongli and Tuncun in October, 2001, covers a total area of 102.91 square kilometers and boasts a total population of 58,000 with 12 administrative villages, 1 aquatic product base and 6 community residents’ committees affiliated.

Tongli -Beautiful Bridge Town

    Tongli, formerly known as Futu, changed its name as “Tongli (铜里)” in early Tang dynasty due to its luxuriousness, and the current name “Tongli (同里)” can be traced back to Song dynasty when people re-created the two characters of “fu (富)” and “tu (土)”.

    Tongli ancient town with beautiful scenery is surrounded by five lakes, namely Tongli, Jiuli, Yeze, Nanxing and Pangshan. The town is divided into 7 small islands by 15 rivers arranged like the Chinese character “川” connected by 49 ancient bridges, making these islands an integrated area. The architectures built by riverside, famous for “small bridge, flowing stream and thatched households”, make Tongli ancient town the best-reserved ancient town by riverside as well as the key cultural relics protection unit of province level, which has been listed as one of 13 scenic spots of Tai Lake.

    The ancient town is open to the public in 1986, and is listed as the first group of historical and cultural towns in Jiangsu Province by the provincial government in 1995.

    Pretty and unsophisticated Tongli town boasts fertile paddy fields, rich resources and outstanding natives, thus crowned as “Small Oriental Venice”. Tongli is characterized by a large number of architectures in Ming&Qing dynasties, small bridges and outstanding celebrities. Tongli boasts 38 residences in Ming&Qing dynasties, 47 temples and ancestral halls and around 100 residences of local rich and powerful people as well as former residences of celebrities. In the past, Tongli ancient town features over 20 natural scenic spots including “Eight Sceneries Ahead”, “Eight Sceneries Back”, “Successive Four Sceneries”, etc., while such sceneries as “Eyeing on the Moon by East Creek”, “Mist in Southern Area”, “Overlooking on Top of Northern Hill”, “Flute form Fishing Households”, “Flourishing Vegetation of the Hill”, etc.

    Tongli people are diligent, hard-working and well-educated, and many outstanding celebrities come from Tongli town. From 1247 AD in Southern Song dynasty to late Qing dynasty, Tongli cultivated 1 Zhuangyuan (champion in imperial examinations), 42 Jinshi (imperial scholars) and 93 Juren (first-degree scholars) in civil and military field. Famous Tongli people were Zhu Heling, Yuan Long, etc, while famous ones in modern times were Chen Qubing, Fei Gong, etc.

    At present, Tuisi Garden in Tongli ancient town has been listed as one of world’s Cultural Heritage, and Tongli ancient town is applying for it. With the reinforcement of publicity, an increasing number of people are aware of and familiar with the ancient town. Many newspaper media in mainland, Hong Kong and America introduce Tongli with illustrations; many shooting crews come to Tongli frequently, and Tongli Shooting Base was established here by China Film Association due to its natural film studio renowned both home and abroad.

Wu Guanzhong, the famous modern Chinese painter, has commented in his articles that the Yellow Mountain has all the charm of the rivers and mountains of China, while Zhouzhuang Town boasts all the beautiful features of a Chinese waterside town. Zhouzhuang was even bestowed the title of number one waterside town in China by overseas press.

Location

Zhouzhuang Town is located 38 kilometers southeast of Suzhou City and 33 kilometers southwest of Kunshan City. It is one of the many wonderful daytrip excursions from Shanghai. You can arrive to Zhouzhuang from Shanghai in 4 hours via the well-networked highway system of the Yangtze River Delta.

Arrival

I visited several places last summer with many friends, Zhouzhuang being one of them. Shortly after a stop in Wuxi, my friends and I reached Zhouzhuang one afternoon. Maybe because of the comparatively mild climate of this riverside town, I didn’t feel suffocated as I do in Beijing.

The first task was for us to find lodging for the night. The hotels and inns there easily fill up during the hot tourist season. On the main street leading to Zhouzhuang Town (the tourist area requires admission), there are flocks of vendors, often mobilized with their motor bicycles, persistently asking whether you need a guide, a map, an inn or something else.
We finally chose an inn outside of Zhouzhuang Town. We could have also chosen to stay within the town, but it seemed that those rooms were nearly rented out and the prices for those remaining would be a little bit high. The inn we chose was a common two-story house with rooms of 120 RMB per night. I was too impatient to wait, so as soon as I put down my bag, I went back out to the street.

The architectural style in the Jiangnan area at the lower reaches of the Yangtze River is very different from others. Houses are all built along the river, and all of them are similar to each other, with white walls, black tiles, and tip-tilted eaves.

A Riverside Dinner

Many restaurants line the riverside. We had a special dinner at one of them, and it was for me one of the most special memories of Zhouzhuang. I sat on a bamboo chair before a wooden table, watching the passing boats beside me. After sunset, red lanterns lit up, and under the romantic and relaxed atmosphere, we tried some of the typical tastes of Zhouzhuang. Wansan Pig’s Trotters, a kind of pork leg, is the most famous food there. In addition, we ordered the Shaoxing yellow wine, heated just a little bit. I am not a wine drinker, but this wine made me recall the famous Chinese writer Lu Xun’s famous novel Kong Yiji, whose main character likes Shaoxing yellow wine very much. But after my first sip of it, I was extremely confused as to why he loves it so much. It tastes strange. Just at that time came a young lady with a dish and chopstick in her hands. She asked whether I would like to listen to her song, I felt a bit uncomfortable to let her stand and sing while I sat and ate, so I refused her politely. However, I still heard her sweet voice and the rhythmic tapping of her chopstick on the dish for a neighbouring table.

The most famous are perhaps Taiping or “Bridge of Peace and Tranquility”, Jili Bridge, which means “bridge to bring good luck” and Changqing Bridge, which means “bridge of lasting celebration”. Together they are known as the Ternate Bridges, as they cross three rivers at their confluence and form a natural ring road. Each also has its own interesting story.

The small but exquisite Taiping Bridge was built during the reign of emperor Jiaqing of the Qing Dynasty. Jili Bridge is an arch bridge, inscribed at either end with age-old couplets describing the town’s beautiful scenery. While the Changqing Bridge, also named Guangli Bridge, has a very long history; it was originally built in 1470 and rebuilt in 1704. Furthermore, the Ternate Bridges are considered symbols of good luck and locals often walk over them during weddings or birthday parties to receive a blessing.

The oldest bridge in Tongli is Siben Bridge. It was built in the Song Dynasty about 8 centuries ago and was named to remind people to think over one’s origin. The town’s smallest bridge is called Dubu or Single Step Bridge and is only one-and-a-half meters in length and less than one meter in width.

The bridges have certainly survived the test of time. Thankfully, many ancient houses have also survived and serve as monuments to the town’s rich history. For this we can thank the beauty of the waterways and nearby lakes as they helped spare Tongli from wars in ancient times which swallowed many other towns. So well preserved is the town’s ancient glory that about 40 percent of its houses and temples date back to the Ming and Qing dynasties. For this reason, Tongli is also known as a “museum of ancient Chinese architecture”.

All over town one can spot ancient buildings distinguishable by their whitewashed walls, black tiled roofs, eaves, carved wooden windows and elegant wood structures. The cleverly planned structure of the town, with its perfect harmony between residential buildings and gardens, are rare even amongst other waterfront towns south of the Yangtze River. It’s therefore no surprise to learn that in ancient times many noblemen and distinguished families built their private gardens here.

From early the 1270s to the 1900s, 38 mansions and gardens were built in the town, many of which have survived in their full glory.

Among them, Tuisi or Retreat and Meditation Garden is one of the most famous, particularly since it was added to the list of World Cultural Heritage Sites of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization in 2000.

This garden mansion was built by Ren Lansheng in 1886 during the Qing Dynasty, after he was discharged from his office in the public service.

Many people regard Tongli as a substitute for Zhouzhuang because Tongli has a similar history and natural scenery, but is much less crowded. Tongli also has its own unique features which are worth exploring and experiencing.

Though long outshined by Zhouzhuang, Tongli is a halcyon and idyllic spot location in Wujiang City. The well-preserved waterside town has a history of more than 1,000 years.

Tongli is divided into seven islands intersected by 15 canals. Because of the landscape, almost all of the buildings in the town are along the waterfront. In front of the buildings, small stairs leading to the canals were built, which are convenient for residents to wash clothes and for traveling around the town by boat.

Arched roofs, lofty gables, stone bridges and green willows lining the banks can be found almost everywhere in the town. They help create a poetic and romantic atmosphere, especially in early spring when trees are budding and refreshing drizzles are frequent.

The landscape also makes Tongli a town of bridges. There are 49 stone bridges linking different sections of the town, each displaying a different style.

Probably the most notable are Taiping (Peace and Tranquility) Bridge, Jili (Luck) Bridge and Changqing (Lasting Celebration) Bridge. They are known collectively as Ternate Bridges, as they cross three rivers and form a natural ring road. The Ternate Bridges are fortunate symbols in the eyes of the local residents and they walk over them for good luck during weddings or birthday parties.

The oldest bridge in Tongli is Siben (Reflecting Origin) Bridge, which was built in the Song Dynasty (960-1279), while the smallest bridge is called Dubu (Single Step) Bridge and is only one-and-a-half meters long and less than one meter wide.

Thanks to the lakes and waterways, Tongli stayed away from the numerous wars which swallowed many other beautiful towns in ancient times. Its former glory can be found in many well-preserved ancient residential and monastic buildings.

In fact, the town is known as a “museum of ancient Chinese architecture,” as about 40 percent of the houses and temples in the town date back to the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing dynasties.

With their whitewashed walls, black tiled roofs, carved wooden windows and elegant wood structures, these buildings feature the harmonious combination of residential buildings and gardens.

Among them, Tuisi (Retreat and Meditation) Garden is the most famous, especially after it was listed as a World Cultural Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization in 2000.

This garden was built by a former royal official Ren Lansheng in 1886 during the Qing Dynasty, after he retired.

“When in office, one should be loyal to the emperor; when away from office, one should meditate upon his previous faults.” This was the motto of Chinese officials in imperial times and where the garden’s name “Retreat and Meditation” came from.

The western part of the garden is the residential quarter, including a sitting hall, a tea hall and the main hall. The eastern part is the scenic area dotted by pavilions, terraces, winding causeways and rockeries.

Covering an area of 6,600 square meters, the garden is shaded by lush trees and embroidered with various bonsais and flowers. Red carps swim in the ponds, and various birds chirp in the woods. One can feel a classical elegance and harmony.

But Tongli is more than just a town with old bridges, houses and gardens. It is a place where one can rest his heart and totally discard the cares of life for a while.

One can stroll around the town along its stone-paved lane, see women washing clothes by the canals, elderly ladies doing morning exercise in groups, men playing cards in teahouses, and fishermen paddling through the waterways with their solemn cormorants perched on the boats.

Spending little money, one can enjoy a fine array of local specialties. Teahouses can be found everywhere and one can drink the fresh green tea served in clay pots.

In the past 10 years, Zhouzhuang in Jiangsu Province was a popular choice for those who want to have a touch of nostalgia. Water, bridges, age-old buildings and unspoiled folk customs have earned it the title of “Oriental Venice.” More and more people swarm here to seek peace and retreat, only to find that the tiny town bursting with visitors from all over the world. Fame has made it hard to spend a quiet and soothing holiday in Zhouzhuang. Thus, Tongli, a neighboring town, has become an alternative destination.

Best time to visit

Tongli features four distinct seasons, each worth experiencing. April-July is the best season when the climate is the most pleasant and scenery is the most beautiful with sprouting plants. A winter visit can give people a different experience when the town blanketed by snow is like a traditional Chinese painting.

Transport

Tongli is only 18 kilometers away from Suzhou and 80 kilometers away from Shanghai. The express bus from Shanghai to Tongli departs from Shanghai Stadium at 8 a.m., 9 a.m., 10 a.m. and 11 a.m. The journey takes two hours. There are shuttle buses from Suzhou Railway Station or Suzhou Bus Station to Tongli, with the journey ranging 35-50 minutes.

Admission

A package ticket including most of the famous gardens costs 50 yuan (US$6).

Food

Never miss the chance to taste fresh aquatic plants and fish. Most of the food is sweet. Famous snacks include smoked fish, dried bean curd, cakes made of glutinous rice and spring rolls (fried stuffed rolls).

Lodging

Family lodges are the first choice. Two family lodges are highly recommended by travel buffs on the Internet. They are Lu’s Hostel (0512-63330674) and Wanshun Hostel (0512-63331608, 63907608), both in the center of the town.
 
(Shenzhen Daily June 8, 2004)

About one hour west of Shanghai, the “Paris of the Orient,” lies Zhouzhuang, the “Venice of the Orient,” close and small enough for a quick day trip from Shanghai. Although there are other towns in China such as Tongli, dissected by streams, rivers and canals, Zhouzhuang is the most famous such “water town” nowadays.

It has been said that a picture is worth a thousand words, but in the case of Zhouzhuang, one painting has been worth RMB$320 million, the amount of revenue Zhouzhuang’s tourism industry raked in last year. In October 1984, a Chinese painter by the name of Chen Yifei put 38 of his paintings on display in New York. One of those paintings, titled “Memory of Hometown” was of Double Bridge in Zhouzhuang, ended up being purchased by Armand Hammer, chairman of the board of directors of Occidental Petroleum Corporation and owner of the gallery. When Hammer visited China one month later, he presented “Memory of Hometown” to Deng Xiaoping and overnight, tourists flocked to Zhouzhuang. Although Zhouzhuang has been around since the Yuan dynasty, around 1086 AD, its tourism industry did not begin to flourish until the 1980s.

Thus, of the 14 stone bridges built during the Yuan (1271-1368), Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, Double Bridge is the one tourists clamor to visit. Double Bridge, two bridges positioned so they form a right angle over a stream, was first built during the Wanli Reign (1573-1619). The other noteworthy bridge is Fu’an Bridge, which holds the distinction of being the oldest bridge in Zhouzhuang having been built in 1355.

On any given day, there are artists who come from around the world to Zhouzhuang to draw Double Bridge or other bridges, which connect the town. (For people who are not as artistically inclined or forgot their paints at home, scenic paintings of Zhouzhuang are conveniently available in souvenir shops which pepper Zhouzhuang.) The bridges are popular subjects because they complement the whitewashed two-story houses with crimson doors and windows and black tile roofs, which flank the waterways, so well.

“People also come to Zhouzhuang to see traditional Suzhou architecture, which doesn’t exist in Suzhou anymore since Suzhou was developed and many buildings were torn down,” said Edward Zhu, a native of Suzhou, located 38 kilometers northwest of Zhouzhuang. Although Zhouzhuang is not as commercially developed as Suzhou, it’s close enough so that their local dialects are mutually understandable.

Sixty percent out of one thousand or so residential houses in Zhouzhuang were built during the Ming or Qing dynasty. Two buildings in particular attract a lot of visitors.

One is the Shen Ting (Hall of Shen) residence. Built in 1742 by the offspring of the wealthiest trader of Zhouzhuang during the Qing dynasty, Shen Wansan, it serves as an extraordinary example of how the rich lived during feudal China. The two-story mansion has more than 100 rooms. On the first floor, the kitchen, family temple are located behind the halls which were used to receive guests or negotiate business. Upstairs are the bedrooms, decorated with furniture made during the Ming and Qing dynasties. If the furnishings and decorations in it look familiar, it’s probably because Shen Ting has been used as the set for several Chinese movies.

The other is the Zhang Ting (Hall of Zhang) residence, built during the Ming Dynasty. It is one of the few well-preserved mansions - Zhouzhuang’s oldest mansion - still around in China. Whereas the other houses in Zhouzhuang are built along the streams and rivers, the Ruojing River actually runs through Zhang Ting so that small boats can enter the house through its backyard.

Zhouzhuang is a small enough town so that it can easily be covered in one day, even on foot. But the local tourism bureau has set up a gondola service to give tourists a quick tour of Zhouzhuang for 60 yuan. Unlike Venice where the gondolas serve as taxi cabs, the gondoliers in Zhouzhuang patiently wait their turn at the dock to pick up their passengers. On the weekends, they might make five or six tours around Zhouzhuang.

After a quick tour around Zhouzhuang either by foot or by ferry, it soon becomes obvious from street vendors hawking Wansan braised pork tendons and “qingtuan” - golf ball-sized dumplings filled with sweet bean paste - that these are Zhouzhuang’s more famous dishes. As for meals in Zhouzhuang, the Wansan braised pork tendons, white shellfish, steamed shad and whitebait fried with eggs are highly recommended.

(by Chi-chu Tschang)